解码伊丽莎白女王的多彩风格

As Britain's longest-reigning monarch, the Queen is both a cherished and consistent part of public life -- her image synonymous with stability and tradition to the British people.作为英国在位时间最长的君主，女王是公共生活中备受珍视和始终如一的一部分——她的形象对英国人民来说是稳定和传统的代名词。

When masses gather and wait dutifully to catch a glimpse of Her Majesty, the color she steps out in is more important than you might think, too. Standing at 5 feet 3 inches, vivid hues like yellow, fuschia, purple, chartreuse and periwinkle make her easier to spot in large crowds. The Queen's bold wardrobe is so distinctive, it has spawned entire books dedicated to recording each beaming outfit. In "Our Rainbow Queen," Welsh journalist Sali Hughes notes Her Majesty's color wheel considerations: "(she) won't wear green to grassy venues, nor dark colours against dark upholstery."当群众聚集并尽职尽责地等待一睹女王陛下的风采时，她走出来的颜色也比你想象的更重要。 站在 5 英尺 3 英寸处，黄色、紫红色、紫色、黄绿色和长春花等鲜艳的色调使她更容易在人群中被发现。 女王的大胆衣橱是如此与众不同，它催生了整本书，专门记录每一件喜气洋洋的装束。 在《我们的彩虹女王》中，威尔士记者萨利·休斯 (Sali Hughes) 指出了女王陛下的色轮考虑因素：“（她）不会在草地上穿绿色衣服，也不会在深色室内装潢中穿深色衣服。”

The monarch's commitment to a vibrant color palette is a sign of respect for those who take the time to support her in person. "She needs to stand out for people to be able to say 'I saw the Queen,'" says Sophie Rhys-Jones, the Countess of Wessex, in the 2016 documentary "The Queen at 90."君主对充满活力的调色板的承诺是对那些花时间亲自支持她的人的尊重。 威塞克斯伯爵夫人索菲·里斯-琼斯 (Sophie Rhys-Jones) 在 2016 年的纪录片《90 岁的女王》(The Queen at 90) 中说：“她需要脱颖而出，人们才能说‘我看到了女王’。”

There is an art to dressing one of the most photographed women in history. Over her 60 year reign the Queen has amassed an army of staffers, but few have been trusted with the task of royal dressmaker. British designers Norman Hartnell, Hardy Amies, Stewart Parvin and Angela Kelly have all helped develop her style -- steering clear of trend cycles that can quickly fall out of favor.为历史上被拍照最多的女性之一打扮是一门艺术。 在她 60 年的统治期间，女王聚集了一支工作人员队伍，但很少有人被委托承担皇家裁缝的任务。 英国设计师 Norman Hartnell、Hardy Amies、Stewart Parvin 和 Angela Kelly 都帮助发展了她的风格——避开可能很快失宠的趋势周期。

Kelly -- the Queen's sartorial adviser for almost three decades and a close confidante -- has created an air-tight formula that ensures every one of the her 300 annual engagements hits the mark. From fail-safe weighted hem-lines and wager-worthy hats, to extensively researched weather forecasts and local customs -- the Queen's outfits are nothing if not judicious.凯利 - 担任女王近三年的裁缝顾问和亲密的红颜知己 - 创造了一个严密的公式，以确保她每年 300 场活动中的每一场都达到目标。 从防故障加重下摆线和值得下注的帽子，到广泛研究的天气预报和当地习俗 - 女王的服装即使不明智也无济于事。

"Our role as her dressers is to ensure that Her Majesty is appropriately attired for each occasion," writes Angela Kelly in her 2019 monarch-approved memoir, "The Other Side of the Coin."“我们作为她的梳妆台的角色是确保女王陛下在每个场合都穿着得体，”安吉拉凯利在她 2019 年获得君主批准的回忆录“硬币的另一面”中写道。

"I look for movement with soft light materials, and might even switch on a fan to see how they behave in a breeze...As the light changes, or when Her Majesty moves to an interior space, this will have an effect on the color and texture of the fabric, and this must be taken into account."“我用柔软的轻质材料寻找运动，甚至可能打开风扇，看看它们在微风中的表现......随着光线的变化，或者当女王陛下移动到室内空间时，这将对 织物的颜色和质地，这一点必须考虑在内。”

Her monochromatic looks are typically decorated with a three-strand pearl necklace and a sparkling antique brooch set in either gold or silver, while a glossy Launer handbag can usually be found in the crook of her elbow. Not only do these mainstay accessories bring a sense of occasion to the Queen's ensembles, they are a kind of sartorial crest on-lookers have come to expect and dissect -- with many eager to unearth sentimental stories behind each item. Take, for example, the hand-painted Centenary Rose Brooch commissioned by the Queen as a 100th birthday gift for the Queen Mother, which she in turn wore during a Christmas broadcast less than a year later after her mother passed.她的单色造型通常饰有一条三串珍珠项链和一枚镶有金色或银色的闪闪发光的古董胸针，而通常可以在她的肘弯处找到一个有光泽的 Launer 手提包。 这些主要配饰不仅为女王的套装带来了场合感，而且是旁观者期待和剖析的一种裁缝徽章——许多人渴望发掘每件物品背后的感伤故事。 以女王委托的手绘百年玫瑰胸针为例，作为送给太后的 100 岁生日礼物，在她母亲去世后不到一年后，她又在圣诞节广播中佩戴了这枚胸针。

For languid afternoons spent walking the grounds of the Balmoral Estate in Scotland, the Queen is quick to switch out of her color block couture and into muted country wear made of tweed and tartan. Her off-duty attire is of equal importance, and often sets the mood for political arrangements. In 2016, when the Obamas arrived at Windsor Castle to meet Her Majesty for the third time, the Queen wore a silk scarf fastened under her chin (a defining feature of her more casual outfits), signaling familiarity and an informal tone.对于在苏格兰巴尔莫勒尔庄园 (Balmoral Estate) 散步的慵懒午后，女王很快就会换掉她的色块时装，换上由粗花呢和格子呢制成的低调乡村装。 她的下班服装同样重要，经常为政治安排奠定基础。 2016 年，当奥巴马夫妇第三次抵达温莎城堡会见女王陛下时，女王下巴下系着一条丝巾（这是她休闲装束的一个显着特征），以示熟悉和非正式的语气。

Fashion statements时尚宣言

Poised, appropriate and always strategic -- the Queen's styling choices are as much a form of diplomacy as they are an expression of identity.稳重、恰当且始终具有战略意义——女王的造型选择既是一种外交形式，也是一种身份表达。

In 2011, Her Majesty became the first British monarch to visit the Republic of Ireland since its creation -- and the first to enter the country in a century.2011 年，女王陛下成为爱尔兰共和国成立以来第一位访问该国的英国君主，也是一个世纪以来第一位进入该国的君主。

The historic state visit was not taken lightly, with tactful considerations infusing every detail of the trip right down to the stitches on her garments. The Queen masterfully demonstrated the soft power potential of fashion, arriving in Dublin wearing a green coat and matching hat -- Ireland's de facto national color. Later in the visit, she donned a white, silk gown embellished with more than 2,000 hand-sewn embroidered shamrocks and an Irish harp brooch made from Swarovski crystals.历史性的国事访问并没有掉以轻心，巧妙的考虑融入了旅行的每一个细节，一直到她衣服上的针脚。 女王巧妙地展示了时尚的软实力潜力，抵达都柏林时身穿绿色外套和相配的帽子——爱尔兰事实上的民族色彩。 在访问的后期，她穿上了一件装饰有 2,000 多颗手工缝制的绣花三叶草的白色丝绸长袍和一枚由施华洛世奇水晶制成的爱尔兰竖琴胸针。

Even in her early career, the Queen was well versed in the value of image-making and optics. Coming to power (and of age) during World War II, the young princess quickly became a vision of hope and optimism in war-torn Britain. She stoked those fires anyway she could -- carefully constructing an image that conveyed authority, elegance and decorum. One of the most readily available sources was her wardrobe.即使在她的早期职业生涯中，女王也非常了解图像制作和光学的价值。 在第二次世界大战期间掌权（和年龄），年轻的公主很快成为饱受战争蹂躏的英国的希望和乐观的愿景。 她尽其所能地点燃了那些火焰——小心翼翼地构建了一个传达权威、优雅和端庄的形象。 最容易获得的来源之一是她的衣橱。

In 1947, two years after the war had ended, the Queen used clothing ration coupons to purchase her wedding dress -- a common practice for brides at the time. It was a gesture of commonality, although Her Majesty did receive 200 extra coupons from the government to help cover the cost. The gown, made of ivory silk and duchess satin with a 15-foot train, was designed by Norman Hartnell.1947 年，战争结束两年后，女王使用服装配给券购买她的婚纱——这是当时新娘的普遍做法。 尽管女王陛下确实从政府那里收到了 200 张额外的优惠券以帮助支付费用，但这是一种共性。 这件礼服由象牙色丝绸和公爵夫人缎制成，带有 15 英尺长的裙摆，由诺曼·哈特内尔 (Norman Hartnell) 设计。

At one of her more recent public engagements -- the funeral commemorating her beloved husband, the Duke of Edinburgh -- the Queen wore all black in line with a mourning tradition. Typically seen in bold colors, Her Majesty's somber outfit was all the more poignant for its rarity. Pinned to her coat was the Richmond Brooch, a diamond-encrusted wedding present gifted to Queen Mary in 1893. Her Majesty inherited the piece in 1953 and wore the flourish to Harry and Meghan's 2018 wedding, reinforcing its connection to marriage and coupledom.在她最近的一次公开活动中——为纪念她心爱的丈夫爱丁堡公爵的葬礼——女王身着全黑衣服，符合哀悼传统。 通常以大胆的颜色出现，女王陛下的阴暗装束因其稀有性而更加令人心酸。 钉在她外套上的是里士满胸针，这是 1893 年送给玛丽女王的镶嵌钻石的结婚礼物。 女王陛下于 1953 年继承了这件作品，并在哈里和梅根 2018 年的婚礼上佩戴了这枚胸针，加强了它与婚姻和夫妻的联系。