历史服饰——1850年的西方时尚

1850年代，西方服装有两个显著的特点，一是女士裙装内部支撑的克里诺林式裙撑（crinoline）或裙箍的宽度增加了。二是服装改革就此开始。

1865年的裙撑

Crinoline 裙撑

The introduction of the steel cage crinoline in 1856 provided a means for expanding the skirt still further, and flounces gradually disappeared in favor of a skirt lying more smoothly over the petticoat and hoops. Pantalettes were essential under this new fashion for modesty's sake.

钢制的笼状克里诺林裙撑在1856年发明出来，它能把裙子撑得更大、更挺括。荷叶边裙渐渐为罩在衬裙和裙箍外的更平滑的下裙所取代。由于这个新风潮，为了庄重起见，女式灯笼裤就显得尤为重要了。

当时的男性时装风尚大多来自英国伦敦，而女装时尚则全部来自巴黎。

下图为英国大文豪查尔斯 狄更斯的1850年照片。

Gowns 女式长裙

In the 1850s, the domed skirts of the 1840s continued to expand. Skirts were made fuller by means of flounces (deep ruffles), usually in tiers of three, gathered tightly at the top and stiffened with horsehair braid at the bottom.

在1850年代，1840年代的拱形裙继续增大。下裙用大量荷叶边做得更加饱满，通常有3层，在顶端收紧，底部用马毛编成的带子定形。

Evening ball gowns were very low-necked, off-the-shoulder, and had short sleeves.

舞会穿的晚礼服领子非常低，露出肩膀，袖子也很短。

Early in the decade, bodices of morning dresses featured panels over the shoulder that were gathered into a blunt point at the slightly dropped waist. These bodices generally fastened in back by means of hooks and eyes, but a new fashion for a [jacket] bodice appeared as well, buttoned in front and worn over a chemisette.

在该年代早期，女士常服的紧身马甲肩上有2块在稍低的腰线上的一点连接的装饰板。紧身衣大体上是在背部以钩子和环扣扣紧的；但夹克式紧身马甲的新风尚也出现了，这种马甲扣在身前，穿在胸衣外面。

Wider bell-shaped or pagoda sleeves were worn over false undersleeves or engageantes of cotton or linen, trimmed in lace, broderie anglaise, or other fancy-work. Separate small collars of lace, tatting, or crochet-work were worn with morning dresses, sometimes with a ribbon bow.

常服更加宽大的钟形或宝塔形衣袖内，是装饰性的“假袖”，或棉质/亚麻材质、饰着蕾丝花边、有英式刺绣（broderie anglaise；因在英国流行而得名，是一种在白布上抽丝组成各种图案的绣法）或其他装点的荷叶袖（engageantes；由多层荷叶边组成的装饰袖）。

broderie anglaise 英式刺绣

engageantes——十八，十九世纪流行的假袖子，由多层荷叶边组成的装饰袖。

Outerwear 外衣

Cape-like jackets were worn over the very wide skirts. Another fashionable outer garment was an Indian shawl or one woven in Paisley, Renfrewshire in a paisley pattern in imitation of Indian styles. Hooded cloaks were also worn.

在这种特别宽大的裙子外面，女士们穿着斗篷状的外套。还有一种流行的外套是印度披肩，或佩斯利（Paisley）织造的饰以佩斯利涡旋纹的仿款。

这是1850年的日常下午裙，下图是出门穿的外套披风。

Riding habits had fitted jackets with tight sleeves, worn over a collared shirt or (more often) chemisette. They were worn with long skirts and mannish top hats.

女式骑马装外套是修身、紧袖的夹克，穿在有领的衬衫或（更常见的）紧身胸衣外面，下着长裙，头戴略具男式风格的高帽。

Hairstyles and headgear 发型与头饰

Hair was dressed simply, middle parted and in a bun or wound braid at the back, with the sides puffed out over the ears or with clusters of curls to either side in imitation of early 17th century fashions.

当时的发式较简单，从中间分开，梳成单个发髻或发辫垂在脑后，两侧蓬起覆在耳朵上；也有仿17世纪时尚的、头侧梳着一串串小卷的发型。

The indoor cap became little more than a lace and ribbon frill worn on the back of the head.

室内女帽则变得几乎等同于一段戴在脑后的蕾丝、丝带制成的褶边。

也有比较奇葩的发型比如这个

Beginnings of dress reform 服装改革的开端

1851 marked the birth of the Victorian dress reform movement, when New England temperance activist Libby Miller adopted what she considered a more rational costume: loose trousers gathered at the ankles, topped by a short dress or skirt hemmed just below the knees. The style was promoted by editor Amelia Bloomer and was immediately christened a Bloomer suit by the press. Despite its practicality, the Bloomer suit was the subject of much ridicule in the press and had little impact on mainstream fashion.

1851年标志着维多利亚时代服装改革运动的起始。该年，新英格兰的禁酒活动家丽比·米勒（Libby Miller）开始穿着她认为更加合理的一套服装：长到脚踝的宽松长裤，上套一条短连衣裙或仅在膝下收边的半裙。编辑艾美利亚·布鲁默（Amelia Bloomer）相当推崇这种风格，这套衣服迅速被冠上该媒体的名字，称为“布鲁默套装”。虽然它具有实用性，但布鲁默套装在舆论界饱受嘲讽，对主流时尚的影响微乎其微。

Men's fashion 男士时尚

当时的男式棉/亚麻衬衣有高高的竖领或翻领。可拆卸的衬衫领和袖子（虽然在1820年代就问世了）也风靡一时。

新潮的活结领带是正方形或长方形的，戴时折成一窄条、系成蝴蝶结，或按对角线叠起、系成的结有2个翅膀状的尖头。

带厚垫的修身长外套（法国的大礼服）已多半由双排扣变为单排扣，这种外衣在谈生意时常穿，内着马甲或翻领、V领的背心。

A new style, the sack coat, loosely fitted and reaching to mid-thigh, was fashionable for leisure activities; it would gradually replace the frock coat over the next forty years and become the modern suit coat.

有一种新式男装，长到大腿中段的便服上衣（字面意义为“麻袋装”sack coat），在休闲活动时穿着很是很时髦的。在之后的40年里，它会慢慢取代双排扣长礼服，渐渐演变成现代的西装。

The slightly cutaway morning coat was worn for formal day occasions. The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers, with a white cravat; this costume was well on its way to crystallizing into the modern "white tie and tails".

在白天的正式场合，男士穿晨礼服。最正式的晚礼服仍然是深色的燕尾服配长裤，系白色的宽领巾。这种服装已在向现代的“燕尾服配白领结”转型。

Full-length trousers were worn for day. Breeches remained a requirement for formal functions at the British court (as they would be throughout the century). Breeches continued to be worn for horseback riding and other country pursuits, especially in Britain, with tall fitted boots.

男士白天穿长裤。Breeches 及膝五分裤仍然是英国宫廷要求的正装（在该世纪都是如此），且（尤其在英国）骑马和其他乡村活动时也会穿着，搭配修身的长靴。

Costumes consisting of a coat, waistcoat and trousers of the same fabric were a novelty of this period.

包含同材质的外套、马甲和长裤的服装是该时代的新潮流。

1850年的马甲仍然仅长到腰，但慢慢地加长了；解开最下方的纽扣的风尚催生了下方开衩的马甲，是19世纪末的事情了。

Tall top hats were worn with formal dress and grew taller on the way to the true stovepipe shape, but a variety of other hat shapes were popular. Soft-crowned hats, some with wide brims, were worn for country pursuits. The bowler hat was invented in 1850 but remained a working-class accessory.

和正装搭配的高筒礼帽越来越高，成了真正的烟囱形。但也流行其他的多种样式的男帽。在乡村休闲时，男士会戴着软顶帽，这种帽子有时带有宽边。圆顶硬帽也在1850年被发明出来，不过它一直是工人阶级的打扮。

Starting in the 1850s and surviving until about the early 1900s (decade), facial hair became extremely popular, featuring a vast array of styles. This is well documented in famous photography of the era.

自19世纪50年代至20世纪前10年，男士都盛行蓄须，胡须具有繁多的式样。当时的知名摄影作品很好地记录了该风潮。

当然，没有胡子的英式帅哥也比比皆是，那么这一阶段的西方服饰就介绍到这里。